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The torture test
An air launcher, a scoop of crushed rock, and a freshly coated panel. The coating takes the hits, then peels away. The paint underneath never knows it happened.
How it works

The wet coat goes on milky white so you can see exactly where you have covered, then dries completely clear. No guesswork between coats.

Cured, it is a clear satin shield with a subtle texture up close. It is armor for the drive, not a show finish. In a few weeks it is coming off anyway.

Lift a corner and pull. The whole membrane comes away in satisfying sheets. No residue, no solvents, factory paint exactly as you left it.
Roll it on tonight. Drive protected tomorrow.
Application guide
Everything you need is in the box. Work panel by panel, keep the coats even, and let time, not heat, do the drying.
1
Wash and dry the surface, then wipe it down. Anything trapped under the film stays there until you peel, so start spotless.
2
Tilt it side to side until the formula is even. Don't shake it hard: agitation whips in bubbles that end up in your finish.
3
Fill the well of the included tray. Pour what you'll use for the panel in front of you. You can always top up.
4
Saturate the roller fully, then roll it out in its plastic sleeve so the product distributes evenly through the nap. An evenly loaded roller lays an even film.
5
Light, overlapping passes. Let each coat flash 10-30 minutes depending on temperature and airflow. It dries clear: each coat is ready when the milky haze is gone. Never force-dry with heat guns or direct sun lamps.
✓
After the trip, the track day, the transport run: lift an edge and pull it off in sheets. That's the whole removal process.
Fonzie covers coat thickness, fixing drips, roller swaps, temperature rules and the easiest way to peel.
When to wear it
A thousand miles of highway throws a thousand miles of gravel, bugs and tar. Roll it on the night before, peel it off when you're home.
One weekend of hot laps can sandblast a front end worse than a year of commuting. Coat the nose, run your sessions, peel in the paddock.
Open trailers, dealer deliveries, winter hibernation under a cover. ExoFlex rides shotgun so straps, dust and grime never touch the paint.
Any non-porous surface: glass in transit, headlights, trim, GRP panels. (Not for the windshield you drive behind. It cures satin, not optical.)
Do the math
Paint damage doesn't announce itself. It rides home with you from the trip, and the body shop hands you the bill weeks later. ExoFlex takes the hit instead, then goes in the bin.
Typical U.S. body shop pricing. Yours will vary. The point won't.
One kit, one afternoon, zero body shop visits.
In the box
Already have the hardware? The Refill Quart is just the product at $42.95.
Questions
Yes, on cured factory and refinished paint in good condition. It is water-based, bonds mechanically rather than chemically, and comes off without solvents. Avoid fresh resprays still outgassing, and flaking or failing clear coat, since anything loose can lift with the film.
It is built for short-term protection: a trip, an event, a transport run. It happily stays on for 3-4 weeks. Peel it when the job is done rather than treating it as permanent armor.
Plan around the high-impact zones: front bumper, hood leading edge, mirrors and rocker leading edges with the full four coats. Covering large or multiple panels? Add a Refill Quart.
Clear with a satin sheen and a subtle texture up close. It is protection you can see working, not an invisible show finish. And it is gone the moment you peel it.
Yes, for glass being transported or stored, plus headlights and trim. Don't coat the windshield you drive behind: the satin cure is not optically clear.
Lift a corner with a fingernail and pull. It comes away in large elastic sheets. If an edge fights back, a spray of water helps it release. No chemicals, no residue.
Worldwide. The water-based formula is not hazmat, so it ships anywhere we deliver. That is something solvent-based coatings cannot say.