Discover The Paint Colors Tailored to Your Ride
Type in your color name/code OR pick your car’s details to see every color option available with Advanced Search—fast and easy!
Search by vehicle, paint code or color name.
Touch-up paint is a small quantity of your car's exact factory color, mixed to the paint code on your vehicle and supplied in a 2oz bottle with a brush built into the cap. It's made for stone chips, small scratches and the odd car-park scuff — damage too small to justify spraying a panel, but too deep to polish out.
The colour is the part that matters. "Black" isn't a colour — BMW alone has dozens of blacks, and a shade that's merely close will show every time the sun hits it. Everything we mix starts from your factory code, which is the same starting point a body shop uses.
Stone chips · small scratches · stone-chip clusters
Brush in the cap. Self-glossing 1K formula — no clearcoat step. The default choice for anything you'd fix with a toothpick.
Bumper corners · mirror caps · trim · long scratches
Anything longer than a few inches. A brush line down a door always reads as a line; spraying and blending doesn't.
Full panels · multi-panel repairs · resprays
Ready to spray, same factory formula. For when the repair has become a project.
Every size is mixed from the same code, so a touch-up bottle today and a gallon next year will match.
Full walkthrough, including the three mistakes that make chips look worse: How to apply touch-up paint.
Most vehicles carry it on a sticker or plate in the driver’s door jamb or B-pillar. Depending on year and model it can also be in the glovebox, the spare-wheel well, under the bonnet, or in the owner’s manual. It’s a short combination of letters and numbers, usually near the words paint, color or C/TR.
Touch-dry in 15 to 30 minutes, safe to drive within an hour, and fully cured in 24 to 48 hours depending on temperature. Below about 50°F the paint dries slowly and can sag, so work in a garage or wait for a warmer day.
Not with our 1K gloss touch-up — the gloss is built into the formula, so it dries glossy from the bottle and you can polish it directly. Traditional basecoat touch-up does need a clearcoat step on top, which is where most DIY repairs go wrong.
From a few feet away, yes. Nose against the panel, a filled chip is still a filled chip. Invisible from any angle needs spraying and blending, which is a much bigger job and rarely worth it for a single chip.
A bottle with a brush gives you far more control for chips, because you can dab thin layers and build up. Pens tend to over-deliver paint and leave a raised blob. For very fine scratches a pen can be tidier, but for stone chips the bottle wins.
A 2oz bottle covers dozens of stone chips — for most people it is a lifetime supply for one car. Step up to an aerosol when you are covering an area bigger than roughly a credit card, or a quart and above for a full panel.
Both, as long as the damage is deeper than the clearcoat. Run a fingernail across it: if the nail catches, paint is the right fix. If it glides over, that is a clearcoat scuff and polish will remove it — paint on top of a scuff makes it worse.
It matches the colour your car left the factory with, which is what the code specifies. On a panel that has faded in the sun, a perfect code match can still look slightly fresh against the old paint — that is why professionals blend into the surrounding area rather than filling the chip alone.
A parts-store universal tube is one approximate shade covering hundreds of different cars. Ours is mixed to order from your specific factory code, from the same formula the manufacturer used. On solid dark colours a universal might pass at a distance; on metallics and pearls it will not.
Every touch-up bottle is mixed fresh to your exact factory paint code — the same OEM color library as our aerosols and ready-to-spray gallons, in a 2oz bottle made for stone chips and scratches.
Every color we mix, organized by manufacturer — touch-up bottles to ready-to-spray gallons.